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Thursday, October 6, 2011

The Taylor-Burton Diamond

By Megan Reynolds, AJP (GIA)
Made famous when it was purchased by Richard Burton in 1969, the Taylor-Burton Diamond had two previous owners before gracing the neck of his wife, Elizabeth Taylor. Originally mined in 1966 at the Premier Mine in South Africa and weighing in at a whopping 241 carats, the Taylor-Burton was cut by Harry Winston into a classic pear shape weighing 69.42 carats. The as-yet-unnamed diamond was then sold to Harriet Annenberg Ames in 1967. However, she sold the diamond just two years later due to its massive size. "I found myself positively cringing and keeping my gloves on for fear it would have been seen… As things are in New York one could not possibly wear it publicly."
The F color Internally Flawless diamond was then put up for auction with the note that whoever bought it would get the privilege of naming it. But the diamond did not go to Richard Burton. He had set a limit of 1 million dollars for his representative to spend and so he lost out on the diamond when it sold for $1,050,000 to Robert Kenmore of Cartier. Regarded as the world’s first million dollar diamond sold in a public auction, it was immediately named the ‘Cartier’. Understandably furious, Burton phoned Kenmore from his London hotel, determined to get the diamond. And he did, for 1.1 million with the provision that the diamond be shown in New York and Chicago as the ‘Cartier’ before Burton could take possession. Yes, Kenmore made a profit off of a diamond that he had owned for about a day. More than six thousand people a day flocked to see the famous diamond while it was on display in New York and Chicago.
Photo:Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images Yale Joel
And then finally, Elizabeth Taylor had her diamond. Renamed the Taylor –Burton Diamond, the stone was originally set into a ring. However due to its massive size the stone was reset into a pendant by Cartier that was finished just in time to be unveiled at Princess Grace of Monaco’s 40th birthday party. And it would seem that Mrs. Ames was correct, because armed guards were required to accompany Elizabeth Taylor and her diamond whenever it was worn in public. The diamond was also part of a humorous exchange between Miss Taylor and Princess Margaret of England, “Is that the famous diamond? But it’s so large, how very vulgar!” “Yes” said Elizabeth. “Ain’t it great?” When the Princess asked to try on the stone Elizabeth is said to have quipped. “It doesn’t look so vulgar now, does it?”    

In 1978, after her divorce, Taylor announced that she was selling the diamond with plans to use the proceeds to build a hospital in Botswana. The diamond sold at auction to Harry Lambert, a New York based jeweler who reportedly paid 5 million dollars for it. However Lambert owned the diamond for a mere six months before selling it to Robert Mouawad, who had it re-cut to 68.09. The reason for the re-cut? Well, Elizabeth Taylor had quite the reputation for being hard on her jewelry. A world famous pearl given to her by Burton was chewed on by her dog! It would seem that this reputation was true as the diamond was graded to be F VVS2 after being purchased by Mouawad. So he had the diamond re-cut to regain the coveted Internally Flawless grade. And in case any of you are diamond nuts like I am, and were wondering, yes this is the same Robert Mouawad whose name graces the Carlsbad, California headquarters of the GIA. He has had quite a collection of the world’s most famous diamonds over the years including the Nassak, the Indore Pears, the Premier Rose, the Jubilee, the Queen of Holland, the Tereschenko, and of course, the Taylor-Burton.

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